DEYA Brewing Co: the haze is steadily rolling in
24 May 2017, By Jonny Garrett
If you’re anything like us, you have an idea of what a brewery looks like in your heads, guided by the beers, branding and reputation. We feel like we know if it’s big, if it’s old or shiny.
The truth is, most modern breweries look the same. Some are more cramped than others; some substitute the curved roof of a railway arch for sloped industrial estate sheet metal; some are certainly cleaner than others. Most of them work with similar equipment too – certainly similar sizes.
The real difference between them, and between the beers, comes from the processes and the people. Nowhere is that more clear than at DEYA, who bought their brewkit from Harbour and went on to make beers that couldn’t be more different. And yet the metals, the pipes, the wires are exactly the same.
DEYA brew ultra-modern East Coast-inspired beers, joining the quest for juicier, more intense beers that was started by the Alchemist, Treehouse and Trillium. While these beers are exceptionally hoppy, what really marks them apart is their focus on the other ingredients. Where West Coast IPAs minimise the malt and yeast flavours to heighten sharp, citric hop flavours, these beers use the softer, fleshier fruity esters from the yeast and pair them with oats and wheat in the grist to enhance the almost fluffy, hazy feel.
Many breweries in the UK have attempted the style – starting perhaps with Gipsy Hill/The Craft Beer Channel’s Drifter – but now we have a brewery focused on the style and the results have been telling. DEYA’s Steady Rolling Man and Into the Haze have been consistently up there will some of the breweries who have been doing it for years. They strike the balance between intensity and drinkability that should be the goal of all craft breweries.
All that said though, there is something special about the feeling at DEYA brewing. Named after a beautiful part of Majorca and focusing on summer-fruit-tinged beers it has an airy, relaxed but intense feel to the place. Perhaps we’re projecting our expectations onto it, but it’s reassuring that the owner, Theo, feels the same as we found out when we visited.